Saint Laurent Summer 2024 Campaign's Fabulous Statement Jewelry by Juergen Teller

Pared-down elegance is its own form of refusal and Saint Laurent [IG] creative director Anthony Vaccarello embarked on a mission for Spring 2024 to “do almost nothing”.

“I see so many complicated things, so many embroideries, so many decorative things, that I wanted to take it all off, to do no more than necessary. To make a clean canvas. Start again a new chapter for Saint Laurent,” were the thoughts expressed by the designer last fall at his spring 2024 runway presentation.

In a world where all fashion has become iconic, the Saharienne jacket—the idea that Yves Saint Laurent transported from his North African upbringing and bestowed on Parisian fashion in 1967 that became truly revolutionary and then iconic was a centerpiece in the YSL spring collection almost 60 years later. Vacarello removed the cross-lacing and delivered a more utilitarian silhouette.

It was the jewelry that dominated the collection. Big, bold and brash metals became modern sculptures, impacted by trends in metallurgy to lighten the weight of heavy-appearing cuffs and outlandish, oversized earrings, showcased against the classic colors of navy, brown and black ready-to-wear.

It felt like a nod to North Africa’s tribal culture but also to the enormous success of Schiaparelli’s bold statement jewelry, which is less modern.

Frequent Saint Laurent photographer Juergen Teller captures models Ajus Samuels, Eva Herzigova, Loli Bahia, Penelope Ternes showcasing the Summer 2024 campaign. / Hair by Duffy; makeup by Dame Pat McGrath