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Artist Betye Saar, the Aunt Jemima Revolution, and a New Humanism
Passing 4 days shy of 100, Assemblage artist Saar left us her profoundly-creative and historical commentary on Black Life in America. Her goals were to inform us but also to inspire us to carry on her mission.
Watching the video ‘Betye Saar: Drifting Toward Twilight’, we learn that the shadow box titled ‘Liberation of Aunt Jemima, 1972’ was Saar’s first artistic assemblage offering. The artwork has become famous worldwide and a subject of major focus in America’s summer of social unrest in 2020.
Models Gertrud Rose and Lauren Huyskens are styled by Tony Irvine in key pieces from Loro Piana Fall 2026 collection. Photographer Bryan Liston [IG] is behind the lens for Self Service Magazine 65 [IG] FW 2026 fashion story ‘Empoweringly’. / Hair by Jimmy Paul; makeup by Jezz Hill
Supermodel Gigi Hadid is not the California girl who has graced fashion pages since 2014 — not in this Vogue France [IG] September 2014 cover story. Wow! And unlike the Page Six headline about Gigi not having eyebrows, we say that everything has changed in these Gigi Hadid images lensed by Willy Vanderperre [IG].
Paul Sinclaire styles Gigi in Saint Laurent on the cover, with Duran Lantink, Gucci, Maison Margiela and more. If editorial head Claire Thomson-Jonville [IG] doesn’t name the designers on her IG, AOC is not spending any more time looking for them.
Vogue Czech’s Hot Pursuit of Bad-Bitch Women
Supermodel Helena Christensen takes two covers for the September 2026 issue of Vogue Czechoslovakia [IG], lensed by Hana Knizova.
Helena’s mom Elsa Christensen also makes an appearance in the fashion story. Elsa and Helena’s father, Fleming Christensen, often found themselves as the ‘adults in the room’ at some fairly wild, fashion-people parties.
Model Loli Bahia shines in a special art house style fashion story for Harper’s Bazaar France October 2026 [IG]. Fashion director Élodie David-Touboul chooses Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello on Loli’s cover. Juergen Teller [IG] is on the streets of Lyon, in Bahia’s Croix-Rousse neighborhood, her home for much of her life. There’s not a lot of info on the shoot — even on the Bazaar France website, which does not shy away from discussing the Saint Laurent ‘situation’. Bahia’s story is a welcome shot of fashion pleasure and AOC loves it. / Hair by Yuji Okuda; makeup by Satoko Watanabe
Incredible Woman Cindy Crawford Covers Porter Magazine | Sincerest Condolences
Update Sept. 22, 2026: Anne of Carversville cannot fathom the despair and suffering of the Gerber-Crawford family on this day. We only know this famous quartet — now minus one — from a distance.
But their openness in sharing their own worries and concerns — but also love and praise for their son/brother Presley in his addiction battle — helped to humanize this condition for the countless families touched by its scorching path of destruction.
Because they were open about their family challenges, we know that parents Cindy and Rande, and sister Kaia did everything possible to nurture a positive outcome for their beloved son and brother Presley.
To lose him . . . in spite of their — and his — valiant best efforts . . . is sad beyond words. ~ Anne
A cemetery and a naked bottom on top model Malgosia Bela, shot by a top photographer Ethan James Green [IG] don’t cause such a tizzy in my brain that said story is tossed in the trash with commentary that it represents a new low in fashion magazines.
Charting fashion from the 19th century to the Nineties to now, the stylist Panos Yiapanis combines garments from his own personal archive with looks from Pieter Mulier’s celebrated five-year tenure at the esteemed Maison Alaïa.
The approach connects Yiapanis, Mulier and Azzedine Alaïa himself – all collectors of historical and contemporary fashion – via a shared passion for clothes of the past, present and future.
Sarah Pigeon Covers Vogue Singapore Wearing Prada
Emmy-nominated actor Sarah Pidgeon [IG] covers the September 2026 ‘Beyond the New’ issue of Vogue Singapore, lensed by Dan Beleiu [IG].
Not only did Pidgeon become a media sensation for her portrayal of Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy in ‘Love Story’. The Detroit, Michigan-born actor became a Chanel ambassador for Watches and Jewelry last October 2025.
The upcoming 2026 VogueWorld Milan turns its attention to ‘Craftsmanship and Human Touch’ in the age of technology. The hope is that each of the Vogue October 2026 ‘Made in Italy’ issues worldwide will tribute the Milan event with a focus on craftsmanship in their own countries.
Supermodel FeiFei sun covers Vogue China’s [IG] October 2026 issue, lensed by Nadine Ijewere [IG] in fashion elegance selected by Alvin Wu./ Hair by Youhua Xu; makeup by Yooyo Keong Ming
Model Lineisy Montero covers The Sunday Times Style [IG] Magazine, September 19th edition. The focus is accessories but Montero goes heavy on the hats with a sizzling cover and punchy — but very sophisticated — images. / Hair by Tomo Jidal; makeup by Rei Tajima
Clean fashion hasn’t looked this sensual and inviting in a long time. Stylist Carolina Orrico — who grew up in Buenos Aires, Argentina in a family of architects — also styled the October cover story for Vogue Taiwan, featuring Carolyn Murphy.
Clément Pascal [IG] photographed Montero, who looks terrific here.
Carolyn Murphy Joins Infinity Wellness C-Suite and Covers Vogue Taiwan
Supermodel Carolyn Murphy covers the October 2026 issue of Vogue Taiwan [IG], in a fashion story styled by Carolina Orrico. Photographer Emmanuel Sanchez Monsalve [IG] captures Murphy, who has always been devoted to wellness issues and protecting the environment, too.
In July, Murphy celebrated her 25th anniversary as a face and global brand ambassador of Estée Lauder. The 53-year old star as been featured on the cover of Vogue 73 times and always celebrated for her commitment to wellness and living a longevity lifestyle.
On September 1, Carolyn Murphy joined Infinity Wellness as Partner and Chief Brand Officer. That’s a big step for Carolyn Murphy, who now assumes C-Suite responsibilities and an equity position in Infinity Wellness as it evolves from a pioneer in whole-food greens into a broader wellness platform.
Models Balat Pal [South Sudan], Svetlana Lethelier [France] and Valery Sergeeva [Russia] bring unexpected heat and visual artistry to a fashion story for V Magazine [IG] 162 Fall 2026. Gro Curtis chooses Chanel, Dior, Dolce Gabbana, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, MiuMiu, Prada, Saint Laurent and more for ‘Feel the Heat’, lensed by Daniel Archer [IG]. / Makeup by Lauren Reynolds; hair by Stelios Chondros
Read on: Latest Fashion Stories and Ad Campaigns/Lookbooks
Pre-2020 Renewed Archives
Pre-2020 Fashion
Andrew Lee Captures Old Masters Style in How To Spend It January 2012
Model Sara Sampaio has a thoroughbred fashion moment, styled by Marina Gallo for Vogue Spain’s October issue. Alvaro Beamud Cortés captures Sara as the seasons change in ‘Larga Cabalgada’. /Hair by Wendy Iles; makeup by Luciano Chiarello
Read on: Pre-2020 Archives: Refreshed
Brand Analysis
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Michael Rider's Celine Star Is a Magic Wand of ‘Infinite Possibilities' for LVMH
My state of being increasingly impressed with Celine creative director Michael Rider shows no sign of subsiding. And now, I am over-the-moon obsessed with the Celine ‘Infinite Possibilities’ Campaign.
The designer’s background is different from Pharrell’s for certain, but even I shook my head over how Rider got off a quasi-activist, values-driven teaching in Oakland schools career track, to end up as creative director of Celine after great success at Ralph Lauren Polo.
Read On: Brand Analysis and Fashion News
Culture, Creatives, Humanism, Earth
Featured
Artist Betye Saar, the Aunt Jemima Revolution, and a New Humanism
Passing 4 days shy of 100, Assemblage artist Saar left us her profoundly-creative and historical commentary on Black Life in America. Her goals were to inform us but also to inspire us to carry on her mission.
Watching the video ‘Betye Saar: Drifting Toward Twilight’, we learn that the shadow box titled ‘Liberation of Aunt Jemima, 1972’ was Saar’s first artistic assemblage offering. The artwork has become famous worldwide and a subject of major focus in America’s summer of social unrest in 2020.
Read the Excerpts in: Culture, Creativity, Humanism, Earth
Women’s News, Interviews
Featured
Vogue Czech’s Hot Pursuit of Bad-Bitch Women
Supermodel Helena Christensen takes two covers for the September 2026 issue of Vogue Czechoslovakia [IG], lensed by Hana Knizova.
Helena’s mom Elsa Christensen also makes an appearance in the fashion story. Elsa and Helena’s father, Fleming Christensen, often found themselves as the ‘adults in the room’ at some fairly wild, fashion-people parties.
Read the Excerpts in: Interviews: Models, Artists, Business
Body Wellness, Sexuality, Culture & Politics
Daily Excerpts New Posts
For Alo 2026 The Future of Luxury Is Wellness, but China Has Headaches with Alo
After further sleuthing, we learned that Alo has been in the market for capital with a $10 B valuation since 2023, which sounds way high. The concept is impressive and very sound before the arrival of Petruzzo, who will be a big help in raising capital and instituting sound financial management systems and international marketing rules.
As much as AOC LOVES this concept, there are flags on the field in China.
Jing Daily reports that Alo will probably face challenges in the China market, as it prepares to open stores in Shanghai and Beijing. JD writes that “years of rampant counterfeiting” have already shaped how Chinese customers view the brand. Those perceptions will impact what customers are willing to pay for product.
There are tariff-related risks, as well. With most of its manufacturing done in China, major risks introduced by President Trump’s deeply personal and punishing approach to tariffs adds extra volatility to Alo’s expansion plans.
The French have an approach to wellbeing that often seems at odds with America’s. An example is this December 2025 French Vogue [IG] fashion story that focuses not on supplements or gentle exercise.
Rather, the French are always game to add lingerie and jewelry to a wellness feature. Model Rosalieke Fuchs is lensed by Maxime La [IG].
Nécessaire defines itself as a chic, gender-neutral skincare brand focused on body and hair — and now scent. The B-Corp brand was founded by Randi Christiansen [ex-Estée Lauder] and Nick Axelrod [Into The Gloss co-founder].
Nécessaire elevates everyday personal care with clean, effective ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and peptides. Considered a ‘cult brand’ since 2018, we’ve taken screenshots from the Nécessaire IG to give us a better intelligence on this entry into the marketplace. Nécessaire is sold at Sephora today.
Read the Excerpts In: Wellness, Sexuality, Body Politics, Culture
