Mario Testino | The Superman Photographer Who Loves Women

Mario Testino, the renowned fashion photographer, produced images for the covers of six major magazines this autumn. Alex BramellMario Testino - 30 Years Behind the Camera NY Times by Suzy Menkes

It’s been a strong year for Mario Testino: six fall fashion covers to his credit, a Testino retrospective traveling the world and a big wedding in London.  

The Peruvian-born maestro behind the international celebrity and glamour lens is summed up by US Vogue editor Anna Wintour: ‘He adores women, adores celebrity — and they adore him right back.’

I think this is Testino’s true gift, one that I consider within a larger context. In an industry that doesn’t always adore women; among photographers — many of whom wish to impose their photographic style on a woman, in the same way that designers view her as a prop —  Mario Testino comes at women differently.

Wintour continues: “I think he really understands our sensibility. He has a style but is not trying to impose. And it is not just the look of fashion and the aesthetic, he also has a business brain.”  Testino’s reputation as a business person is legendary.

Catching the moment is the ‘Mario message,’ says UK stylst Lucinda Chambers. Ms. Chambers says it’s ‘part of a visual curiosity’ that includes his interest in models as more than coat hangers and also a passion for collecting art.

Kate Moss by Mario TestinoTerrence Pepper, curator of photography at the Portrait Museum of London, describes Testino as the ‘John Singer Sargent of our time.’

‘It’s a choice — there are two different sorts of photographer: those obsessed with the technicalities and those obsessed by the subject,” says Mr. Testino. “I ask how I can make them look their best.’

‘Where is her dark side?’ Testino critics demand, insisting that if she is not a coatrack, let’s still show her who’s boss behind the camera.

Exhalting women does not support masculine artistry. Is it not men’s role in life to define how women are portrayed? THEY are the artists, not her.

‘A lot of photographers like models to be blank canvases — but bland girls don’t influence me. I don’t like playing with dolls; I like playing with people,’ says Mr. Testino, who says that it is her character and individuality that makes him ‘obsessed’ with Kate Moss.

When the subject is photographers, the imperious male arguments are very similar to those among designers. He is the star; she is — well a model. And not a supermodel either. Those days are over … still … at least for now.

Perhaps the secret of Mario Testino’s superb reputation and workload is not rendered irrelevant by his use of a bit too much photoshop on occasion. History will decide, not his critics — many of them having no intellectual pedigree of their own.

Perhaps the fact that countless women regard Testino as an ally and true friend in an industry that views females as washed up at 24 — if not 18 — cements Testino’s reputation for posterity. It’s the classy guys who know the fruit of collaboration in the artistic process.

Photoshop or no photoshop, he is forgiven. Now the Telegraph UK delivers Mario Testino, talking about his breaks in life. Sienna Miller sings his praises at the Moet and Chandon Etoile awards celebrating Testino’s 30 years in fashion and his outstanding contribution to society and culture.

Last note for those critics who say Testino should stop now. Carine Roitfeld — who can’t say enough about the photographer and good friend — says Testino will be part of her new magazine. Smart woman, that Carine Roitfeld.