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« 'Great Escapes' Historical Adventures in Vogue UK January 2012 | Main | Agyness Deyn | Patrick Demarchelier | British Vogue January 2012 | Be So Bold »
Tuesday
Dec132011

Eye | Raf Simons to Dior? | LVMH NYC Hotel? | Chinese Luxury Market | 

Raf Simmons for Jil Sander RTW Spring 2012Dior Update

WWD reports this morning that Dior is closing in on Raf Simons to take the reins at Dior. With no agreement reached and discussions officially over about Marc Jacobs making the move with no deal reached, it seems that Simons, who would have to get out of a tight contract with the Milan-based Jil Sander, is the target of Bernard Arnault.

Raf Simons only began designing women’s wear only at Sander. If the rumours are true, they suggest Dior management is considering a more modernist direction for the house, given Simons’ predilection for minimalism and futurism. Simons’ spring-summer 2012 collection reimagined ideas from the Fifties into modernized, hyper-chic fashions for today. (see above). Such a vision could be an excellent 21st-century transition for the Christian Dior brand.

This strategy would make sense, knowing that Arnault’s daughter Delphine prefers the cleaner, less costume-driven style at Celine. Though highly-talented, Galliano’s approach to Dior was very theatrical, more so even than the vision of its original founder.

Related articles: The LVMH Challenge of Branding Christian Dior for the Future

Wanted at Dior | Super Creative, Low Drama, Confident Not Abrasive Designer Who Loves Women

LVMH Executive Changes

Bulgari The giant luxury company LVMH announced several executive changes yesterday. Michael Burke, head of Italian fashion brand Fendi, will become chief executive of jeweller Bulgari in February 2012 as part of a management reshuffle following its acquisition by LVMH. His positions within LVMH include president of Dior in the United States and Louis Vuitton North American head as well as Christian Dior Couture chief operating officer.

Meanwhile, Alessandro Bogliolo, Chief Operating Officer of Bulgari, will continue in his current position for a period of transition, before taking over a new assignment within the LVMH Group.

Fendi Pietro Beccari, executive vice president, marketing and communications at Louis Vuitton, will become chief executive of Fendi, and his replacement at Vuitton would be announced later. Beccari, is also chairman of Berluti, LVMH’s luxury shoe brand, which will unveil its first ready-to-wear collection in January at Paris Fashion Week.

Cheval Blanc LVMH Hotel in Courchevel FranceThe New York Post reported that LVMH is considering opening a luxury hotel in New York, located on an L-shaped site between 56/57th street on Park Avenue. LVMH’s headquarters and Louis Vuitton flagship store are located at 57th and Fifth Avenues.

The LVMH Cheval Blanc Hotel in France earned the highest luxury hotel rating “Palace” distinction from the French Tourism Authority. LVMH Hotel Management already announced other luxury hotel and resort projects in Egypt and Oman. Last month, LVMH was rumoured to be interested in acquiring luxury Aman Resorts, which its owner Indian developer DLF put up for sale earlier this year.

Chinese Luxury Market

We’re behind the curve in sharing this WWD article about the growing Chinese luxury market. In decisions that don’t surprise us, France is the top destination for Chinese tourists, with America coming in second. Theoretically, a looming trade war between the US and China could make those numbers drop further.

Paris may never be the same, with a Chinese tourist market three times the size of Japan’s by 2020, writes the Boston Consulting Group. The lines into luxury stores will be endless, wrapping around the block. Reviewing Chinese shopping patterns across several countries and cities, Shi Hui Ling, a so-called “guest experience manager,”who was handpicked from a tourism school in Dubai by Six Senses resort”, says:

“Something unique, they want to buy this. They are looking for handmade [souvenirs], something very natural.”

And in terms of what they will not buy, there are three words they are on the lookout for: Made in China. “If they see those words, they will not buy that [product],” Shi says.

 

 

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